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Wine: Climate change and holiday recommendations

by Jay Kitterman, culinary and special events consultant and adjunct instructor, Lincoln Land Community College

This month’s article is devoted to wine. I still remember early in our marriage saving up for a bottle of Mateus or Lancers to enjoy for a special occasion or festive holiday dinner. Our tastes have evolved but we still enjoy a glass of wine when dining.

You may have heard about how the impact of climate change is threatening the world’s wine industry. A recent United Nation’s report states that 2011 to 2020 was the warmest decade on record for Earth. The 2022 harvest in Spain is being reported by some wineries as the earliest on record due to the heat advancing grape picking earlier in the season. In addition, there is the challenge of water scarcity, and it is predicted by 2050 grape growing regions will decrease by at least 25 percent. For my article today, I asked Susan Danenberger, owner of Danenberger Family Vineyards in nearby New Berlin, what she has experienced. And, with the upcoming holidays, I asked two of our local wine shops to recommend five wines under $20.

Susan says that she has “noticed a dramatic change over the last 10 years in the Midwest. It feels like the seasons have shifted, and I can no longer prune my vineyard in February. The late winter/early spring has more warmer days than before, which encourages bud swelling.”   

Another climate change that has impacted her is that springs have gotten wetter over the last 10 years which has in turn increased fungus in the vineyard. When the lifecycle starts later, there aren’t enough days for the grapes to ripen before the temperatures drop in the fall. “This results in picking with lower brix (sugars), higher acids (which can be modified) and less complexity because some phenolic characteristics haven't developed yet.” Susan admits that her vineyard is not the “prettiest,” for she has purposely allowed more weeds to grow in the vineyard to give competition for the vines.

In 2019, Susan was forced by Mother Nature to make a Rosé out of her Cabernet Franc because she knew the grapes would not have time to ripen into her bold (my favorite) Carmin. The result was her Muse Rosé, which was a fan favorite, but it also meant she did not have a 2019 Carmin to release.

Wines for the holidays (or any time) 

I asked Danielle from The Corkscrew and Zach from It’s All About Wine to recommend five wines under $20 and to include a sparkling. 

Danielle from the Corkscrew located at 2625 Chatham Road suggests these five.

  1. Pizzolato Prosecco, $19.99. - Elegant palate of green apple, lemon zest and hazelnut. Serve as an aperitif.
  2. Lost Poet Red Blend, $17.99 - 68% Merlot, 24% Cabernet Sauvignon and 8% Petite Syrah. Succulent, plush flavors charm your senses in this juicy red blend. Bursting with luscious notes of red fruit, bacon and bell pepper, this love potion will win over your taste buds.
  3. Oyster Man Muscadet, $14.99 - Refreshing aperitif or served with oysters and seafood
  4. Monsalaia, $ 16.99. - 50% Sangiovese, 30% Merlot and 20% Cabernet Sauvignon. Aromas of dried cherries, cocoa and plum. Serve with a variety of meats, pasta or cheeses.
  5. Ame du Vin, $ 19.99. - Crisp and dry with aromas of strawberries, orange, grapefruit and jasmine flowers. Pair with salads and green vegetables.

Zach from It’s All About Wine located at 1305 Wabash Avenue recommends the following five:

  1. Bolet Cava - $17.99 An easy drinking, not-too-dry Cava with hints of apple, anise, brioche and citrus.
  2. 2020 Dr. Konstantin Frank Semi-dry Riesling - $19.99 A very succulent, peachy riesling with spot-on balance of racy acidity and a touch of natural grape sweetness.
  3. 2021 Inama Vin Soave - $18.99 Mineral on the palate with an almond finish, typical of a classic Garganega.
  4. 2020 Foucher-Lebrun Chinon Cabernet Franc - $19.99 A bright, fruit-forward palate that offers lovely floral notes that are backed by raspberry, cassis and a touch of pepper on a lingering finish.
  5. 2020 Puro Malbec - $16.99  Many people think of Argentina when they hear Malbec, but the grape has historically grown in France. This French Malbec has lovely blueberry, plum and tobacco on the palate that is balanced with acidity, minerality and tannins

Have you been to Danenberger’s Family Vineyard in nearby New Berlin? Susan Danenberger’ s family has farmed this land for over 100 years. The vineyard has now evolved into an entertainment center: “Wine Rocks.” Visit Danenberger Family Vineyard's website for a list of upcoming performers and other information. Susan provided me a couple of wine recommendations.

  1. W. Sullivan Syrah 2020 dry, Bourbon Barrel Aged – Grape: Syrah $30 This limited release, single varietal Syrah has a great tannin structure that is complimented by the smooth bourbon character that can only come from a 1792 Bourbon Barrel. This Syrah is dedicated to our winemaker’s father, William Sullivan, to honor his stewardship to our farm. NOTE: 15% Alcohol
  2. Shine 2021 semi dry –  $24 Shine is a semi-dry white wine, dazzling your eyes with edible glitter while delighting your palate with flavors of nectar, apples and peaches   

My thanks to Susan Danenberger, Zach Sweet and Danielle Anderson for their assistance with this article. Enjoy your holidays and remember:

“No poem was ever written by a drinker of water.” — Horace

About

Lincoln Land Community College offers credit programs in Culinary Arts, Hospitality Management and Baking/Pastry, and non-credit cooking and food classes through LLCC Community Education.

Cooking or food questions? Email epicuriosity101@llcc.edu.

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