Growing up on the South Side of Chicago, it was always a treat to visit the “deli.” Now, when Carol and I travel to a larger city, we make it a point to dine at a deli to share a corned beef sandwich. A true deli corned beef is normally massive (enough for two), plus of course a kosher pickle, a side of coleslaw and a Dr. Brown’s soda — for Carol, chocolate phosphate. When I think deli, my recollections are of a large counter/refrigerated case with a selection of cold cuts, taking a number, waiting in line, fast-paced service (important to decide what you want in advance) and the “deli man.” Close by is the deli man’s most important tool: the slicing machine. Short for the German delikatessen or French délicatesse, the “deli” originally denoted “fancy fine foods” or a place where such things were sold.
Classic items at a Jewish deli are corned beef and pastrami. Pastrami originated from Romania and is usually made from beef brisket. The raw meat is brined, partially dried, seasoned with herbs and spices, then smoked and steamed. Like corned beef, pastrami was originally created to preserve meat before the invention of refrigeration.
When in New York, a recommended must is a visit to the deli. The most famous is Katz’s Delicatessen. Katz’s first opened in 1888. After changing hands and its location — just across the street, due to the inception of the subway — Katz’s Deli became an institution known for its attention to detail, including its old-fashioned, slow-cured beef pastrami. Katz’s takes up to a month to produce the real deal: mouthwatering meats that attract international visitors every week. Katz’s was featured in the 1989 film “When Harry Met Sally.” The classic line from the film “I’ll have what she’s having,” is the title of an exhibit organized by the Skirball Center in Los Angeles.
Lincoln Land Community College and the Jewish Federation of Springfield are partnering for a one-day trip to visit the Illinois Holocaust Museum and see the exhibit which explores how Jewish immigrants, mostly from Central and Eastern Europe, imported and adapted traditions to create a uniquely American restaurant. Included in the trip is an authentic Jewish deli lunch from Kaufman’s Delicatessen in Skokie. The trip is open to the public, and for more information email me or visit LLCC travel opportunities. Joining us on the bus to provide his expertise on delis and Jewish food traditions will be Rabbi Barry Marks. Space on the deluxe motorcoach is limited.
I get many questions about kosher and kosher-style foods and what the difference is. Kosher diets stem from the Jewish religion and follow traditional Jewish law. There are three main categories when it comes to strictly kosher diets: meat (mammals or fowl, as well as products derived from them), dairy (milk, cheese, butter and yogurt) and pareve (any food that is not meat or dairy, including fish, eggs and plant-based foods). For a mammal to be considered kosher, it must chew its cud (partially digested food) and have split hooves. All meat and dairy products must be kept separate, in both preparation, production and service. In addition, there are certain types of meat and fish that are not kosher — specifically, pork. Additionally, dairy must come from a kosher animal, and fish must have fins and scales to be kosher. As the name implies, kosher-style food is food that does not achieve the same standard as strictly kosher food, but beyond that, the meaning is ambiguous. When some people use the term, they mean foods traditionally eaten by Jews (usually Jews of Eastern European extraction) — bagels with lox, chicken noodle soup, deli sandwiches, etc. — but made without strictly kosher ingredients. According to either of these definitions, a cheeseburger would not be considered a kosher-style food because no matter how strictly kosher the burger or the cheese, the two cannot be combined if strictly kosher.
A favorite of mine from the deli is halvah. Halvah is a versatile sweet that is featured in many international cuisines, including Balkan, Middle Eastern and South Asian. Its origins trace back to the 13th century. The preparation involves mixing nut or seed paste or toasted flour with heated sugar syrup.
Halvah
Ingredients
- 2 cups honey
- 1 1/2 cups tahini, well stirred to combine
- Up to 2 cups toasted sliced almonds or other nuts (optional)
Directions
- Heat honey on medium heat until your candy or instant-read thermometer reads 240˚ F or indicates the “soft ball” stage of candy making. To confirm that you are at the “soft ball” stage, drop a bit of the honey into a cup of cold water. It should form a sticky and soft ball that flattens when removed from the water.
- Have the tahini ready to heat in a separate small pot. Once the honey is at the appropriate temperature, set the honey aside. Then heat tahini to 120˚ F.
- Add the warmed tahini to the honey, and mix with a wooden spoon to combine. At first, it will look separated, but after a few minutes, the mixture will come together smoothly.
- Add the nuts, if using. Continue to mix until the mixture starts to stiffen, for a good 6-8 minutes. Pour mixture into a well-greased loaf pan, or into a greased cake pan with a removable bottom.
- Let cool to room temperature, and wrap tightly with plastic wrap. Leave in the refrigerator for up to 36 hours. This will allow the sugar crystals to form, which will give the halvah its distinctive texture.
- Invert to remove from pan, and cut into pieces with a sharp knife.
- It will keep for months in the refrigerator, tightly wrapped in plastic — if you don’t eat it all first!
The deli
A famous advertisement for Levy’s rye bread was, “You don’t have to be Jewish to love Levy’s,” and that applies to dining at a Jewish deli. I look forward to seeing you on our April 2 trip to Skokie, and feel free to share your Halvah with me.
About
Lincoln Land Community College offers credit programs in Culinary Arts, Hospitality Management and Baking/Pastry, and non-credit cooking and food classes through LLCC Community Education.
Cooking or food questions? Email epicuriosity101@llcc.edu.